I've done it in my head. For a sweater, for instance, take the entire amount of sts front and back, cast on circ needle. Make sure the stitches arent twisted. The key is to remember that when knitting in the round you do not have to alternate between k and p to get stockinette stitch. You just have to k to get stock stitch.

It's prolly best to start with a simple pattern with no intricate stitches. Once you see how the stitches work it will be easy to convert more complex patterns.

For underarm shaping, I just bind off the appropriate number of stitches in the proper place. Then work each side as if on straight needles.

I"d be happy to offer more help if you want.

amy

Thanks, Amy.

If I only knit each row, do I follow the pattern every other row to make up for the lack of purling? ....Can you recommend a pattern to start with that you have used, let's say, to make a hat?

If you are doing stockinette stitch (on straight needles - ie knit a row, purl a row) then you will simply knit around and around and around. For underarms I usually split the stitches and go back and forth slipping the first (or last) stitch so I have a nice tight and easy edge from which to pick up stitches.)

Another thing I look for are the "selvage" stitches. They can add extra stitches that you may not want, especially if you are working certain patterns in multiples.

Hi,

Sorry I've been away and didn't respond sooner.

It's prolly best to start with a straight stock. st. pattern. There is usually no selvage stitch.

The first sweater I ever knit was an Islandic, which was knit in the round. That is prolly why all this came so easily for me. You may want to start with something like that if you haven't already.

What I do now, is work the body in the round per Bryn Mawr. When I get to the underarms, I divide the work in half, and put half on a holder, then work the other half as if flat knitting. I also, more or less, figure out what to do when I get there. I know that isn't particularly helpful to anyone, tho.

Hope this helps.

I haven't done this myself but I found this and saved it to my puter for some day.

Start by e-wrapping to the right the desired number of pegs, turn, and e-wrap back to the left, then knit the first row. Now wrap your loom and knit from left to right while reading the pattern from left to right as well. Then the next row, as you wrap and knit from right to left, read the pattern from right to left, and keep alternating this way. If you prefer to always knit going the same direction, just remember to read the pattern in same direction you knit. When using the "skip-every-other-end-peg" wrap style, then add an end extra peg at the beginning and end of the pattern row - a border edge that preserves the pattern.

Stockingette stitch=Knit each row

Garter stitch= Knit 1 Row, Purl 1 row

Ribbing*KPKP*

K2 P1 Ribbing *KKPKKP*

2 x 2 Ribbing *KKPPKKPPKKPP*

To Convert knitting patterns to loom, Where in Knitting, work is turned every row, to loom , where your work is never turned,

First, you change Knits to Purls, and Purls to knits............

You read row 1(right side), from Left to right,

and row 2 (wrong side) from right to left, .

It helps to use knitting graph paper, http://www.tata-tatao.to/knit/matrix/e-index.html,,

and chart every RS row as it is written, from left to right.

and every WS row from right to left.

If you are converting from a chart, Read row 1 right to left, and row 2 left to right.